The choice of fabric is a crucial aspect of the embroidery process. Different fabrics have different characteristics that can greatly affect the outcome of an embroidery design, and even with the use of appropriate stabilizer, not every design is suitable for all types of fabrics, for example, dense stitching designs can put pressure on knitted fabrics and light, loose woven fabrics, which in some cases can cause the fabric to pull apart.

In this article, we'll take a closer look at what we know about garment fabrics and the problems and solutions that different fabrics may encounter when embroidering.

1.Understand the different fabrics

Different embroidery fabrics have their own characteristics, suitable for different types of embroidery works and creative styles, choosing the right embroidery fabrics can effectively enhance the effect and texture of embroidery works.

Classification of fabrics

Textile fabrics are divided into three main categories according to different processing methods: woven fabrics, knitted fabrics, and nonwovens.

Most of the clothes we wear are woven and knitted fabrics, that is, made of woven fabrics and knitted fabrics.

a) Woven Fabric: Fabric made by interweaving yarns arranged perpendicular to each other, i.e., weft and warp, on a loom according to a specific pattern. Weaving is one of the most common fabric production methods. Woven fabrics are usually made by interlacing yarns, giving them good strength and durability, making them suitable for garments that are frequently worn and washed. During production, woven fabrics are controlled by the interlacing of yarns and yarn density, resulting in good dimensional stability and resistance to deformation. They are generally easy to handle and sew, making them convenient for garment production and processing.

b) Knitted Fabric: Fabric made by interloping yarns to form loops, creating the fabric. Knitting is performed by needles on a knitting machine that interloop the yarns to form the fabric. It is divided into weft knitting and warp knitting.

c)Non-Woven Fabric: Non-woven fabric is made by bonding loose fibers or yarns through chemical or mechanical methods to form a fabric. Figuratively speaking, it can be like our tissue paper, which is relatively easy to tear, or like industrial felt, which is very thick and sturdy. Examples include melt-blown fabric and spunlace fabric, which are commonly used in fields such as medical supplies and filtration materials.

The difference between knitted fabric and woven fabric

Woven fabrics and knitted fabrics are two different manufacturing methods. Woven fabrics have tightly interlaced yarns, making them generally more robust and less prone to deformation. Knitted fabrics, on the other hand, have a relatively soft structure, with yarns interlooped in a circular pattern, offering better stretch and elasticity.

Features:

Knitted fabric: with good elasticity, breathability and comfort, suitable for making close-fitting clothing and sportswear.Woven fabric: strong and wear-resistant, good draping, and not easy to pilling, suitable for making coats, pants, shirts, etc.

Purpose:

Knitted fabrics: often used to make T-shirts, underwear, sportswear, sweaters and other clothing that requires flexibility and comfort.

Woven fabric: often used to make jeans, shirts, bedding, coats and other durable clothing and household goods.

In general, woven fabric is suitable for clothing design that requires more structure, warmth and texture, and is often seen in formal occasions or clothing styles that require a professional sense. Knitted fabrics are suitable for making comfortable, flexible and breathable clothing, which is commonly found in casual, sports and spring and summer clothing styles.

Fabric structure

Embroidery involves stitching patterns, text, or images onto fabric using threads of different colors. Therefore, the fabric's structure is crucial for embroidery. Certain tightly woven fabrics, such as plain weave, provide a more stable foundation, allowing the embroidery threads to be securely embedded.

The main organization of woven fabrics

a）Plain weave: Plain weave is one of the simplest and most common woven structures. It consists of weft and warp threads interlaced and woven together to form a simple plaid pattern. Plain fabrics are flat and strong, and are often used to make lightweight fabrics such as shirts, bed sheets, and T-shirts.

b）Twill weave: Twill weave is a woven structure with a diagonal texture. It consists of weft and warp threads interlaced and woven at a certain oblique angle, creating a diagonal texture. Twill is usually stronger and more abrasion-resistant than plain weave, and is often used to make durable fabrics such as denim, workwear, and jackets.

c）Jacquard Weave: Jacquard weave is a woven structure that is woven through a jacquard mechanism. It creates intricate patterns and textures, which are achieved by adjusting the way the yarns are interwoven and the density. Jacquard fabrics are commonly used to make high-grade garments, curtains, home decorations and other fabrics that require delicate patterns.

d）satin and sateen weave: satin and sateen weave is a woven structure with a smooth, glossy finish. It is formed by the interweaving between the weft and warp threads, which gives the surface of the fabric a smooth texture. Satin fabrics are often used to make dresses, bedding, lingerie and other fabrics that require luster and softness.

The main organization of knitted fabrics

a）plain stitch: plain stitch is the simplest structure in the fabric, consisting of continuous unit coils strung over each other in one direction. It creates a different appearance on the front and back of the fabric. The organization has great lateral extensibility, but it is easy to roll the edge and loose, widely used in underwear, outerwear and all kinds of hosiery.

b）Rib stitch: Rib stitch is a double-sided tissue, by the front side of the coil longitudinal rows and the reverse side of the coil longitudinal rows of the combination of configurations, according to the number of front and back side of the coil longitudinal rows of the different configurations between different names and properties of the ribbed tissue. Ribbed tissue has good elasticity, and is mostly used in all kinds of underwear products and clothing parts that require stretch (such as hems, cuffs and collars of clothes and stretch shirts, etc.)

 c）Double reverse organization: Double reverse organization, also known as “pearl knitting”, consists of alternating rows of coils on the front side and rows of coils on the back side, which can be combined in different ways to form concave-convex stripes or patterns. It is characterized by longitudinal and transverse extensibility and high elasticity, and is mostly used for sweaters, sweatshirts or children's wear.

2.Why it is important to differentiate between different fabrics when embroidering

Different weaving methods produce fabrics with different structures and properties. For example, woven fabrics are relatively more stable than knitted fabrics because they usually have a more uniform fiber distribution and structure. Knitted fabrics, on the other hand, may be less stable because of uneven fiber arrangement or greater elasticity. The organization of a fabric can also affect its stability. For example, plain and twill fabrics are relatively stable, while jacquard and knitted fabrics may have higher stretch. Fabrics that undergo different subsequent treatments and processing can also affect their stability. For example, heat-setting treatment can make fabrics more stable and less prone to deformation; while some special coating or coating processes can also increase the stability of fabrics.

Of course, while we consider the raw material of the fabric and the characteristics of the material, we should not ignore the thickness and weight of the fabric, for example, thin cotton fabric is relatively thin and easy to be distorted or wrinkled during the embroidery process. This may result in distorted or uneven embroidery patterns. The use of a proper backing paper can provide additional support and stability, reducing the risk of distortion. Thick meter cotton fabrics are thicker and denser and may experience penetration problems during embroidery.

Different properties of knitted and woven fabrics

a) Different stretch

In general, knitted fabrics have more stretch because there is more space for the thread (yarn) in the loop. Woven fabrics are less elastic than knitted fabrics unless they contain elastane in their thread composition. Some designs cannot be applied to fabrics that are too stretchy.

b) Different reactions to pressure

The basis of the loops (stitches) in knitted fabrics is basically one thread. Woven fabrics have two bottom threads (vertical and horizontal). A single thread foundation does not provide the same stability to the fabric as a two thread foundation. Therefore, knitted fabrics can easily fall apart when cut, while woven fabrics are tighter.

c) Different wrinkle reactions

Knitted fabrics are more elastic to this, while woven fabrics are subjected to greater pressure during the weaving process, lack stretch and wrinkle easily.

d) Different shrinkage rates

In general, knitted fabrics shrink more easily than woven fabrics, and choosing machine embroidery fabrics from the knit category means that it always needs to be pre-shrunk before using it.

Differences in fabric properties

a) Fabric Stability

When choosing fabric for your embroidery machine, an important factor to consider is stability. Choosing stable fabrics ensures that your embroidery process remains stable and accurate. Stable fabrics minimize shifting and deformation during the embroidery process, making the embroidery pattern clearer and more precise. Fabrics such as cotton, linen, and stable weaves are good choices for embroidery projects.

b) Fabric Thickness

Fabric thickness plays a vital role in the operation of the embroidery machine and the final embroidery effect. Thicker fabrics may require longer needle lengths and greater penetration, while thinner fabrics may require shorter needle lengths and less penetration. Adjust your embroidery machine settings to accommodate fabric thickness to ensure consistent and high-quality embroidery results.

c) Fabric Stretch

Some fabrics, such as stretch fabrics or elastane, have high stretch. When using these fabrics on an embroidery machine, their elastic properties must be considered to avoid stretching and deformation during the embroidery process. For highly stretchy fabrics, specialized embroidery techniques and settings may be required to ensure the best embroidery results.

d) Fabric Weight

The weight of the fabric can also affect the embroidery process. Lightweight fabrics, such as chiffon or organza, require careful handling to prevent deformation or wrinkling of the embroidery. These fabrics are often used for delicate and intricate embroidery designs because they can incorporate more complex details. Heavier fabrics, such as denim or wool, provide a solid foundation for embroidery and can withstand more powerful stitching techniques. When we use the Yongxiu machine to embroider different garments, we need to understand the characteristics of different fabrics if we want to embroider satisfactory works.

Density of fabric

Fabrics with higher density are usually more stable and can provide better support and stability, making the embroidery process more accurate and stable. In contrast, fabrics with lower density may shift or deform during the embroidery process, resulting in poor embroidery results. When embroidering on fabrics with higher density, the embroidery pattern is easier to present clearly due to the smaller spacing between the yarns. Conversely, when embroidering on fabrics with lower density, the embroidery pattern may appear blurry or unclear due to the larger spacing between the yarns.

Let's take a look at different fabrics and the problems that may be encountered with different fabrics and the corresponding solutions.

3. Common fabric types

-Cotton: Cotton is one of the most common and widely used fabrics. It is breathable, moisture wicking and comfortable for making summer garments, T-shirts, shirts, etc.

-Silk: Silk is a luxurious fabric with luster and softness. It is often used to make clothing for formal occasions, such as dresses, evening gowns, and silk blouses.

-Hemp Cloth: Hemp cloth has a natural rough texture and grain, making it suitable for summer clothing, casual wear, and decorative items such as hemp pants, hemp dresses, and hemp aprons.

-Wool: Wool is a warm fabric that is commonly used to make winter clothing such as sweaters, coats, and wool pants.

-Polyester: Polyester is a synthetic fiber, easy to clean, not easy to wrinkle and other characteristics, commonly used in the production of sportswear, jackets, dresses and so on.

-Nylon: Nylon is a strong, abrasion-resistant synthetic fiber commonly used to make outdoor clothing, sportswear, socks and more.

-Denim: Denim is a strong and durable cotton fabric that is commonly used to make jeans, denim jackets, denim skirts and more.

-Leather: leather has high abrasion resistance and durability, not easy to wear and damage, commonly used in clothing, footwear, bags, etc.

-Velvet: Velvet requires the use of silk fibers and after a special processing technology to be made, is a high-grade fabric, velvet is often used in the production of high-grade clothing, home décor and furniture and so on.

a)Cotton

Cotton fabric fibers are relatively rough and more uniform, the interconnection between the fibers is relatively tight, this structure makes the cotton fabric is relatively stable, is not prone to significant deformation. The cotton fibers themselves are relatively low in elasticity, and once the shape of the cloth is fixed, it is usually not easy to produce a large deformation due to external forces. Cotton fabric has good moisture absorption, but moderate water absorption will not lead to significant expansion or shrinkage of cotton fabric, so normal washing and maintenance usually does not lead to significant deformation of cotton fabric.

Problems and Solutions:

Deformation: Cotton fabrics may deform to a certain degree when exposed to water or moisture, which may affect the accuracy of the embroidery pattern.

Solution: You can add lining paper to increase the stability of the embroidery, you can adjust the tension if you find any deformation during the embroidery process, don't use too big embroidery needles and complicated embroidery plates.

Shrinkage: Cotton fabrics may shrink to some extent after washing, which may lead to distortion or distortion of the embroidery pattern.

Solution: It is therefore necessary to pre-treat the cotton fabric before embroidery. For example, soaking the cotton fabric in warm water will help loosen the fibers and reduce shrinkage, and spreading the cotton fabric out flat to dry to avoid over stretching or folding.

Threads come off easily: The fiber structure of cotton fabrics may cause embroidery threads to come off more easily.

Solution: Special thread construction or post-processing methods are required to secure the threads.

b）Silk

Silk fibers are composed of silk liquid secreted by silk worms, the fiber structure is relatively thin and soft, there is no interwoven structure between these fibers like cotton or linen, so it is more susceptible to external pull and deformation, when a relatively fragile fabric.

Problems and Solutions:

Vulnerability: Silk is a fragile material that is easily pierced or stretched by embroidery needles.

Solution: When embroidering silk, use fine needles and gentle strokes to avoid applying too much force or too fast. A liner or stabilizer can be used around the embroidered area to add stability and protection to the silk.

Slip: Silk is a slippery material that tends to move or twist during the embroidery process.

SOLUTION: Silk can be prevented from moving by using a silk needle or embroidery tape to secure the silk to the embroidered area prior to embroidering the silk. Alternatively, a stabilizer or backing paper can be used to increase the stability of the silk and reduce the possibility of slippage.

Translucency: Silk is a relatively transparent material and the color of the embroidery thread may show through the silk.

Solution: Choose an embroidery thread color that coordinates with the silk to ensure that the embroidery thread does not stand out too much on the silk. In areas where the transparency of the silk needs to be maintained, embroidery can be done with light threads or transparent threads.

Adjustment of embroidery density: Due to the fine fibers of silk, embroidery lines may form too dense embroidery on silk, resulting in silk deformation or loss of luster.

Solution: When embroidering silk, the embroidery density can be adjusted appropriately so that the embroidery lines are not too dense. This can be achieved by adjusting the tension of the embroidery machine, the speed and the choice of embroidery design. Carry out a proper test embroidery to observe the reaction of the silk and make further adjustments as needed.

c）Hemp Fabric

Hemp fiber is extracted from the stem of the hemp plant, which has an interwoven mesh structure between its fibers, making hemp cloth have good stability and tensile strength. This fiber structure allows hemp cloth to hold its shape and not deform easily when subjected to external forces, which allows hemp cloth to maintain its long-lasting shape and structure when making clothing, home furnishings and other textiles.

Problems and Solutions:

Loose Fibers: Hemp cloth fibers are relatively coarse and loosely structured, which can cause embroidery needles to easily pass through the gaps between the fibers. This may result in the embroidery thread not being secure enough, leading to loosening or detachment.

Solution: Use a finer embroidery needle to better penetrate the gaps between the fibers. Apply backing materials, such as embroidery hoops or stabilizer paper, around the embroidery area to enhance stability

Texture Interference: The texture and unevenness of hemp cloth can interfere with embroidery patterns, making the designs less clear.

Solution: Iron the hemp cloth before embroidery to flatten its surface and reduce texture interference. Use finer embroidery threads to better adapt to the texture of the hemp cloth.

Securing Thread Ends: Due to the loose fiber structure of hemp cloth, thread ends can easily become loose or detach during embroidery.

Solution: Before starting embroidery, use some adhesive or glue to secure the thread ends on the hemp cloth, ensuring the embroidery thread does not come loose easily. At the end of the thread, do some repetitive stitching to increase the firmness of the thread ends.

Color Bleeding: Hemp cloth has good absorbency, which can cause embroidery thread colors to bleed onto the cloth in a humid environment, affecting the clarity and vibrancy of the design.

Solution: Pre-treat the hemp cloth before embroidery by soaking it in water to allow it to fully absorb moisture, then let it dry to reduce the possibility of color bleeding. Use colorfast embroidery threads to ensure the thread colors do not bleed onto the hemp cloth.

d）Wool

wool is essentially composed of protein fibers, making it a natural fiber with a certain degree of elasticity and resilience, making it prone to deformation.

Problems and Solutions:

Fabric Deformation: Wool fabric may deform during the embroidery process due to stretching or the weight of embroidery threads.

Solution: You can use stabilizers around the embroidery area, such as water-soluble stabilizer or stabilizer paper, to maintain the fabric's stability. Additionally, avoid using overly dense or heavy embroidery threads to reduce pressure on the fabric during embroidery.

Thread Pass-through: The fibers of wool fabric are relatively soft, which may lead to thread pass-through during embroidery.

Solution: You can use a layer of stabilizer paper or adhesive paper on the backside of the embroidery area to prevent thread pass-through to the front of the fabric. Additionally, choose an appropriate embroidery needle tip to minimize piercing the fabric excessively.

Embroidery Thread Loosening: The relatively rough fibers of wool, along with the larger gaps between fibers, may cause embroidery thread to not secure firmly enough as it passes through these gaps, leading to loosening or detachment.

Solution: You can use strong knots or methods to hide the thread ends at the end of the embroidery thread to increase its firmness. Avoid excessive pulling of the embroidery thread to prevent damaging the fiber structure and minimize the risk of thread loosening.

Embroidery Area Constraints: Wool fabric may have unique textures or variations in thickness that can limit the embroidery area.

Solution: Before embroidering, conduct a trial on the fabric to determine the most suitable embroidery area. If there are significant variations in texture or thickness, consider using different embroidery techniques or adjust the size and shape of the embroidery design accordingly.

e）Polyester

Polyester is an important variety of synthetic fibers, and its commercial name is polyester fiber. Polyester fabrics are not easily deformed, do not easily wrinkle, are abrasion-resistant, easy to clean, and wrinkle-resistant. They are commonly used to make clothing, bedding, outdoor products, and so on.

Problems and Solutions:

Stretching Issue: Polyester fabrics have a certain degree of elasticity, which can lead to stretching and distortion of the embroidery pattern.

Solution: Use embroidery fabrics with good stability, choose appropriate embroidery backing fabric, or use high-stability embroidery stabilizers to enhance the stability of the fabric during embroidery.

Thread Pull Marks: During the embroidery process, polyester fabrics are prone to leaving thread pull marks.

Solution: Adjust the tension and speed of the embroidery machine, choose appropriate threads, or prepare the fabric properly before embroidery, such as using temporary stabilizers to secure the thread positions.

Pilling Issue: Polyester fabrics sometimes tend to pill, affecting the embroidery effect.

Solution: Choose high-quality embroidery threads, adjust the embroidery speed, and the way the needle is used to avoid excessive friction on the fabric.

 f）Nylon

Nylon fabric is typically lightweight, thin, and soft, while also having excellent tensile strength, which prevents deformation and maintains the shape stability of clothing. It's suitable for making summer clothing, outdoor sportswear, lingerie, and more.

Problems and Solutions:

Shift Issue: The smooth surface of nylon fabric may cause embroidery patterns to shift during embroidery, resulting in uneven embroidery lines.

Solution: Use embroidery backing fabric or stabilizers suitable for nylon fabric, or prepare the fabric with temporary stabilizers or basting before embroidery; choose appropriate needles, adjust the embroidery speed and tension to ensure even lines.

Thread Dropping: Nylon fabric is not easy to secure embroidery thread ends, which can lead to thread dropping or loose stitches.

Solution: Use high-quality embroidery threads and pre-treat the fabric before embroidery, such as using adhesives or double-sided tape to secure the thread ends in place.

 g）Denim fabric

Denim fabric is woven with coarse and dense cotton yarn, which results in a tight interweaving of fibers, providing strong durability. Due to its tightly woven structure and heavier texture, denim clothing tends to be slightly heavier in quality compared to other fabrics.

Problems and Solutions:

Penetration Difficulty: Denim fabric is typically thicker than other fabrics, which can pose some resistance to embroidery needles.

Solution: You can use sharp-tipped embroidery needles and apply appropriate pressure when piercing the fabric. If the fabric is too thick, consider using a larger size embroidery needle.

Thread Breakage: Due to the density and toughness of denim fabric, embroidery threads are susceptible to breakage due to tension and friction.

Solution: To prevent thread breakage, choose high-quality embroidery threads and ensure they are not overly tightened. Using appropriate embroidery needles and employing correct embroidery techniques can also reduce the risk of thread breakage.

 h）Velvet

Velvet is a type of fabric, and its pile refers to the long, fine fibers on the surface, which is one of the main characteristics of velvet fabric. These long, fine fibers can be made of natural silk fibers or synthetic fibers. The backing fabric is the supportive part behind the pile, which supports the pile, enhances the fabric's strength, and stability. The backing fabric is typically made of cotton, polyester, or other suitable fabrics, and it has a certain degree of toughness and abrasion resistance.

Problems and Solutions:

Pile Shedding: The pile on velvet fabric is prone to shedding, especially during embroidery where it may get pierced or caught by embroidery threads, leading to unclear embroidery patterns or sparse pile issues.

Solution: Before embroidery, you can spray some temporary adhesive on the pile or use stabilizers to increase the stability of the pile.

Pile Clogging Embroidery Needle: The long and soft pile of velvet fabric can easily clog the eye of the embroidery needle. This can result in the embroidery thread not being able to pass through the needle eye during the embroidery process, affecting the progress of the embroidery.

Solution: You can choose embroidery needles with fine eyelets and regularly clean the needle eyes to ensure that the embroidery thread can pass through smoothly.

Pile Deformation: The pile of velvet fabric is prone to deformation after being pierced by embroidery needles, resulting in uneven pile shapes. This can affect the details and overall effect of the embroidery pattern.

Solution: You can use stabilizers or adhesive on the pile to increase its stability and try to avoid excessive piercing during embroidery.

Friction between Pile and Embroidery Thread: Friction between embroidery thread and the pile of velvet fabric can damage or cause shedding of the pile. This can leave noticeable marks after embroidery or cause the embroidery pattern to lose detail.

Solution: You can choose smooth embroidery threads and try to minimize friction between the thread and the pile during embroidery.

The type of fabric determines the quality of the embroidery, but when embroidering, we not only need to consider the type of fabric but also understand the characteristics of different fabrics and production techniques to make a comprehensive judgment and take appropriate measures to obtain high-quality embroidery.

Different fabrics have different characteristics, and different weaving techniques may also change the original characteristics of the fabric. Therefore, when selecting fabrics, it is necessary to assess them from multiple aspects and take appropriate measures according to the fabric to achieve good embroidery quality.

This is the whole content of this blog, I hope to help you choose the right fabric for embroidery, if you have other questions can also give me a message, I will reply in time to help you solve, thank you for reading!